March
through May
June through August
September through November
December through February
Disclaimer
Home Lawn Calendar
The following management practices will help you care for your lawn throughout the year. Location, terrain, soil type and condition, age of the lawn, previous lawn care, and other factors affect turf performance, so adjust these management practices and
dates to suit your particular lawn.
March through May
Mowing
Mow the lawn to 1½ inches when it turns green in the spring. Do not let it grow taller than 2¼ inches. Use a rotary mower to remove the seedheads. NEVER burn Carpetgrass to remove excessive debris.
Fertilization
DO NOT apply nitrogen now. Have the soil tested every third year to determine nutrient and lime requirements. (Contact your Cooperative Extension center for details.)
Insect Control
Check for white grubs, mole crickets, armyworms, and sod webworms. On dry, well-drained soils, also check for nematodes. If you suspect nematode damage, ask your Cooperative Extension agent how to submit a sample for analysis.
Weed Control
Unless your Cooperative Extension agent suggests otherwise, do not make a broadcast application of herbicide. Carpetgrass is sensitive to most herbicides, and most herbicides are not labeled for use on Carpetgrass. Manage weeds by hand pulling and mowing.
Watering
Make sure your lawn gets 1 inch of water each week. If it doesn't rain enough, you may need to water. In dry, sandy soils, you may need to water ½ inch every third or fourth day. Proper irrigation helps prevent or reduce problems in the summer.
Thatch
Thatch (layer of undecomposed grass) is usually not a problem unless you overfertilize or overwater. If thatch is thicker than ½ inch, power rake (vertical mow) lightly several weeks after spring greenup. Space blades 2 to 3 inches apart and ½ inch deep in one
direction. Do not use a vertical mower with a 1-inch blade spacing or you will severely damage your lawn.
Renovation
Replant bare areas no earlier than April 15 (or when average daytime temperatures are continually above 60° F). Use 2 pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet or 1½ bushels of sprigs per 1,000 square feet. (One square yard of turf pulled apart is equivalent to one bushel of sprigs.) It's easier to spread seed if you mix it with fine sand. Rake seeds into the soil or cover the seeds lightly with light soil. Keep the seedbed continually moist, but not soggy, with several light waterings daily for several weeks. Seeds should germination in 7 to 10 days. Continue to water regularly for several weeks to keep seedlings from dying.
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Mowing
Mow grass to 1½ inches with a rotary mower, every 10 to 14 days, or before grass grows above 2¼ inches tall.
Fertilization
Fertilize with ½ pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet in mid-June. A second application in mid-August may enhance your lawn if you live along the coast. Use a slow-release fertilizer to help reduce or prevent Brown (Large) Patch Disease.
You need to apply pound of nitrogen square feet, but how much fertilizer do you need to buy? Divide 50 by the FIRST number on the fertilizer bag. For example, if you've got a 5-5-15 fertilizer, you divide 50 by 5 and you get 10. That means you need to buy 10
pounds of fertilizer for every 1,000 square feet of lawn.
Insect Control
Check for white grubs, mole crickets, armyworms. On dry, well-drained soils, also check for nematodes. If you suspect nematode damage, ask your Cooperative Extension agent how to submit a sample for analysis.
Disease Control
Watch for Brown (Large) Patch Disease, which shows up as circular patches of brown grass up to several feet in diameter (see Diseases
of Warm-Season Grasses, AG-360).
Weed Control
Unless your Cooperative Extension agent suggests otherwise, do not make a broadcast application of herbicide. Carpetgrass is sensitive to most herbicides, and most herbicides are not labeled for use on carpetgrass. Manage weeds by hand pulling and mowing.
Watering
Make sure your lawn gets 1 inch of water each week. If it doesn't rain enough, you may need to water. In dry, sandy soils, you may need to water ½ inch every third or fourth day. Proper irrigation helps prevent or reduce problems in the summer.
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September through November
Mowing
Raise the height to 2 inches 4 weeks before the first expected hard freeze.
Fertilization
DO NOT apply nitrogen now. Have the soil tested every third year to determine nutrient and lime requirements. (Contact your Cooperative Extension center for details.)
Insect Control
Check for white grubs, mole crickets, armyworms, and sod webworms. On dry, well-drained soils, also check for nematodes. If you suspect nematode damage, ask your Cooperative Extension agent how to submit a sample for analysis.
Disease Control
Watch for Brown (Large) Patch Disease.
Watering
Continue to water as needed to avoid wilt until your lawn begins to turn brown (the onset of dormancy). Although a dormant lawn requires less water, make sure the soil doesn't get powder dry. Sandy, well-drained soils are most susceptible to drought.
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December through February
Mowing
Remove lawn debris (rocks, sticks, and leaves). NEVER burn off carpetgrass to remove excessive debris.
Weed Control
Unless your Cooperative Extension agent suggests otherwise, do not make a broadcast application of herbicide. Carpetgrass is sensitive to most herbicides, and most herbicides are not labeled for use on carpetgrass. Manage weeds by hand pulling and mowing.
Watering
Water occasionally, especially in sandy, well-drained soils.
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DISCLAIMER:
Recommendations for the use of agricultural chemicals are included in this
publication as a convenience to the reader. The use of brand names and any
mention or listing of commercial products or services in this publication does
not imply endorsement by the North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service nor
discrimination against similar products or services not mentioned. Individuals
who use agricultural chemicals are responsible for ensuring that the intended
use complies with current regulations and conforms to the product label. Be
sure to obtain current information about usage regulations and examine a
current product label before applying any chemical. For assistance, contact
your county Cooperative Extension Service agent.
Prepared by Arthur H. Bruneau, Crop Science Extension Specialist, Turfgrass,
with contributions and assistance from the following:
Matthew C. Martin, Area Specialized Agent, Turfgrass
Henry C. Wetzel, Extension Plant Pathology Specialist, Turfgrass
Rick L. Brandenburg, Extension Entomologist
Fred H. Yelverton, Extension Crop Science Specialist, Weed Management
Cale A. Bigelow, Extension Associate, Turfgrass
Published by North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service
Publication Number: AG-541 Revised: October 2000
This Electronic Revision: Sept, 2007
This publication is available on
the TurfFiles Web site at http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/.