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Carpetgrass Lawn Maintenance Calendar (AG-541)

Article contains terms, results, and products that are targeted to home owners. Article contains terms, results, and products that are targeted to turf professionals.
Art Bruneau
Feb 22, 2001
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Carpetgrass


March through May
June through August
September through November
December through February
Disclaimer


Home Lawn Calendar


The following management practices will help you care for your lawn throughout the year. Location, terrain, soil type and condition, age of the lawn, previous lawn care, and other factors affect turf performance, so adjust these management practices and dates to suit your particular lawn.


March through May


Mowing

Mow the lawn to 1½ inches when it turns green in the spring. Do not let it grow taller than 2¼ inches. Use a rotary mower to remove the seedheads. NEVER burn Carpetgrass to remove excessive debris.


Fertilization

DO NOT apply nitrogen now. Have the soil tested every third year to determine nutrient and lime requirements. (Contact your Cooperative Extension center for details.)


Insect Control

Check for white grubs, mole crickets, armyworms, and sod webworms. On dry, well-drained soils, also check for nematodes. If you suspect nematode damage, ask your Cooperative Extension agent how to submit a sample for analysis.


Weed Control

Unless your Cooperative Extension agent suggests otherwise, do not make a broadcast application of herbicide. Carpetgrass is sensitive to most herbicides, and most herbicides are not labeled for use on Carpetgrass. Manage weeds by hand pulling and mowing.


Watering

Make sure your lawn gets 1 inch of water each week. If it doesn't rain enough, you may need to water. In dry, sandy soils, you may need to water ½ inch every third or fourth day. Proper irrigation helps prevent or reduce problems in the summer.


Thatch

Thatch (layer of undecomposed grass) is usually not a problem unless you overfertilize or overwater. If thatch is thicker than ½ inch, power rake (vertical mow) lightly several weeks after spring greenup. Space blades 2 to 3 inches apart and ½ inch deep in one direction. Do not use a vertical mower with a 1-inch blade spacing or you will severely damage your lawn.


Renovation

Replant bare areas no earlier than April 15 (or when average daytime temperatures are continually above 60° F). Use 2 pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet or 1½ bushels of sprigs per 1,000 square feet. (One square yard of turf pulled apart is equivalent to one bushel of sprigs.) It's easier to spread seed if you mix it with fine sand. Rake seeds into the soil or cover the seeds lightly with light soil. Keep the seedbed continually moist, but not soggy, with several light waterings daily for several weeks. Seeds should germination in 7 to 10 days. Continue to water regularly for several weeks to keep seedlings from dying.

Return to Main Index

June through August


Mowing

Mow grass to 1½ inches with a rotary mower, every 10 to 14 days, or before grass grows above 2¼ inches tall.


Fertilization

Fertilize with ½ pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet in mid-June. A second application in mid-August may enhance your lawn if you live along the coast. Use a slow-release fertilizer to help reduce or prevent Brown (Large) Patch Disease.


You need to apply pound of nitrogen square feet, but how much fertilizer do you need to buy? Divide 50 by the FIRST number on the fertilizer bag. For example, if you've got a 5-5-15 fertilizer, you divide 50 by 5 and you get 10. That means you need to buy 10 pounds of fertilizer for every 1,000 square feet of lawn.


Insect Control

Check for white grubs, mole crickets, armyworms. On dry, well-drained soils, also check for nematodes. If you suspect nematode damage, ask your Cooperative Extension agent how to submit a sample for analysis.


Disease Control

Watch for Brown (Large) Patch Disease, which shows up as circular patches of brown grass up to several feet in diameter (see Diseases of Warm-Season Grasses, AG-360).


Weed Control

Unless your Cooperative Extension agent suggests otherwise, do not make a broadcast application of herbicide. Carpetgrass is sensitive to most herbicides, and most herbicides are not labeled for use on carpetgrass. Manage weeds by hand pulling and mowing.


Watering

Make sure your lawn gets 1 inch of water each week. If it doesn't rain enough, you may need to water. In dry, sandy soils, you may need to water ½ inch every third or fourth day. Proper irrigation helps prevent or reduce problems in the summer.

Return to Main Index

September through November


Mowing

Raise the height to 2 inches 4 weeks before the first expected hard freeze.


Fertilization

DO NOT apply nitrogen now. Have the soil tested every third year to determine nutrient and lime requirements. (Contact your Cooperative Extension center for details.)


Insect Control

Check for white grubs, mole crickets, armyworms, and sod webworms. On dry, well-drained soils, also check for nematodes. If you suspect nematode damage, ask your Cooperative Extension agent how to submit a sample for analysis.


Disease Control

Watch for Brown (Large) Patch Disease.


Watering

Continue to water as needed to avoid wilt until your lawn begins to turn brown (the onset of dormancy). Although a dormant lawn requires less water, make sure the soil doesn't get powder dry. Sandy, well-drained soils are most susceptible to drought.

Return to Main Index

December through February


Mowing

Remove lawn debris (rocks, sticks, and leaves). NEVER burn off carpetgrass to remove excessive debris.


Weed Control

Unless your Cooperative Extension agent suggests otherwise, do not make a broadcast application of herbicide. Carpetgrass is sensitive to most herbicides, and most herbicides are not labeled for use on carpetgrass. Manage weeds by hand pulling and mowing.


Watering

Water occasionally, especially in sandy, well-drained soils.

Return to Main Index

DISCLAIMER: Recommendations for the use of agricultural chemicals are included in this publication as a convenience to the reader. The use of brand names and any mention or listing of commercial products or services in this publication does not imply endorsement by the North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service nor discrimination against similar products or services not mentioned. Individuals who use agricultural chemicals are responsible for ensuring that the intended use complies with current regulations and conforms to the product label. Be sure to obtain current information about usage regulations and examine a current product label before applying any chemical. For assistance, contact your county Cooperative Extension Service agent.

 

Prepared by Arthur H. Bruneau, Crop Science Extension Specialist, Turfgrass,

with contributions and assistance from the following:

Matthew C. Martin, Area Specialized Agent, Turfgrass

Henry C. Wetzel, Extension Plant Pathology Specialist, Turfgrass

Rick L. Brandenburg, Extension Entomologist

Fred H. Yelverton, Extension Crop Science Specialist, Weed Management

Cale A. Bigelow, Extension Associate, Turfgrass

 

Published by North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service

Publication Number: AG-541 Revised: October 2000
This Electronic Revision: Sept, 2007

 

This publication is available on the TurfFiles Web site at http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/.

KEYWORDS FOUND IN THIS ARTICLE:
armyworm
large patch
nematodes
turfgrass maintenance
carpetgrass
lawn care
nitrogen
turfgrass management
centipedegrass
lawn maintenance
seeding
turfgrass weed control
fertilizer
lime
sod
warm season
grub
management
sod webworms
watering
herbicide
mole crickets
St. Augustinegrass
weed control
insect control
moles
take all patch
weed management
irrigation
mowing
thatch
white grubs
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